 |
 |
 |
 |
Route the light leads.
Remove the light leads from the relay (two long black wires going into one spade connector at the relay) by pulling up on the spade connector.
I was not comfortable running these power leads naked as the manufacturer warns, "Be sure these wires are securely wire tied to the existing wires so they do not interfere with the lower cowl (fairing) or become pinched by the cowl." I installed them in a piece of split Flex Tube. I used 1/2" because that is what I had in my garage. 3/8" or maybe 1/4" would be better. You will need a piece that is 4 feet long. Push the leads into the flex tube. It is easier to do this through the seam that to try to push it through the opening. Locate the relay end near inside but near the end of the flex tube.
Look down inside to the frame inside the handle bar opening on the left side. You will see where there is an opening where another hose is routed. Feed the relay end of the flex tube through this opening. It will feed into the fairing pocket / headlight adjustment panel area. Pull the tube through enough to allow you to reconnect to the relay. Either pull the wire slightly or trim the flex tube to expose the spade connector. Reconnect the spade connector to the relay.
I used the plastic bag that the hardware was shipped in to cover the relay. I tied it with one of the short wire ties and then trimmed off the excess. I figured this would add some extra protection. (This picture was taken before I decided to add the flex tube, so it is not shown.)
Working from the front of the bike, look up under the fairing and route the flex tube down behind the black upper cowling.
Route the flex tube so that it runs with the existing wires along the right and under the engine cover. (Note: the pictures were taken after the flex tube was wire tied in place, so the wire ties are visible. Do not install the wire ties yet.)
Find the end of the right lead wire and pull it through the seam in the flex tube. Plug the lead into the white wire on the light. You can trim the excess flex tube at this point. Wrap a piece of electrical tape around the end of the flex tube to prevent the wire from pulling out of the split.
Find the end of the left wire lead and pull it through the seam in the flex tube. Plug into the white wire on the light. Wrap a piece of electrical tape above where you pulled the lead through the seam in the flex tube.
Reconnect the negative battery connector, install the fuse in the power lead, turn the ignition to the on position, and test the lights.
Control switch off ==> no lights in either high or low beam.
Control switch on (should be lighted) and high beam on ==> no lights.
Control switch on (should be lighted) and low beam on ==> lights should be working.
The fog light switch will always be lit when it is pushed in and off when it is in the out position.
If everything is working, we are ready to clean up the wiring.
Use the wire ties to attach the flex tube to existing wires.
Place the rubber boot back over the wiring harness where you found the unused connector which was used to connect the light switch and tuck it back under the tank cover where it was originally.
Reinstall the left fairing pocket. Pull out on the center section of the plastic connectors. Insert them into the pocket and fairing cover and depress the center section until even with the connector.
Tuck the relay (in plastic bag in picture below) and other wires back under the fairing pocket.
Reinstall the headlight adjustment panel. With left edge tilted up, slip the right side under the fairing cover and then push the left side in place. Use the original fastener (5mm) to reattach.
Double check to make sure lights are still working.
Adjust the lights. (This is not fun, as you may have to install and remove the front cowl several times.
Install the front cowl. You do not have to install all of the bolts, but you should at least install the bolts under the light pods and the two center bolts. Make a note as to how the lights fit the openings in the cowl (i.e. Right Light: 1/8" right; 1/16" down). The better job you do in estimating the movement of the lights the fewer the number of times you will have to remove the cowl. There should be a small gap to allow for air flow.
Remove the cowl and make the adjustments. You will need a 9/32" wrench and a 4 mm Allen wrench.
With the bike on the center stand and perpendicular to and about 10 feet from a wall, turn on the lights. Adjust the lights so that they are aimed about 6"-12" below the low beam. Hold a rag over each light to see if they are pointing from side to side so that there is some overlap over the center.
Tighten light mounting and adjustment fasteners.
Reinstall the cowl and repeat the process until you are satisfied with the fit and light adjustment.
Reinstall the left side cover and the fairing trim strip.
Enjoy your new lights.
