 |
 |
|
|
I was advised June 24, 2002 by Lewis Preston of Electrical Connections that they have made numerous improvements since this comparison was made. Lewis offered to provide me with a set of lights for further evaluation; however, I have decided not to go any further in this direction. The EC website adequately outlines their product.
I would also like to point out that I have had numerous failures with bulbs on the Tulsa lights. Tulsa replaced some of the bulbs at no charge, but I was still faced with the issue of installing them. Time is money. I used the Tulsa light protectors. After about 6 months they bulbs burned the material. I found the material very difficult to remove and actually cracked one lens in trying to remove the material. I also had one of the reflectors inside of one light break off.
I eventually went to AutoZone and bought a set of Pilot Lights for $20.00 and installed them. One of these lights has since cracked.
The bottom line is that this material is outdated but will provide some insight for those purchasing newly designed aftermarket products.
When I install accessories, it is my practice to document the product and its installation process. I participate in several forums and typically post the link to the installation instructions to benefit others that may be considering the product. I did the this for the Electrical Connections Auxiliary Lights (Electrical Connection Auxiliary Light Installation Instructions). I was contacted by Allen Smith, owner of Tulsa Enterprises. Allen said that he would be willing to send me a set of his lights at no charge in exchange for my documenting the installation process and doing a comparison of his lights to the Electrical Connection lights. I documented the installation of the Tulsa Fog Lights (Tulsa Enterprises Fog Light Installation Instructions) and below have provided the comparison. Allen and Lewis Preston of Electrical Connections were provided these result before posting.
The light housings themselves look very similar. Aluminum casting with plug connections on the leads. Both manufacturers have admittedly had problems with bulbs burning out prematurely. The bulbs are made in Taiwan and have some quality issues.
Tulsa 
Electrical Connections
The Tulsa bracket is heavy and is made out of stainless steel. This bracket has a two hole mount and is slotted to allow independent adjustment in vertical and horizontal, and up/down swivel positions.
The Electrical Connections bracket is a light gauge stamped bracket and is slotted to allow independent horizontal adjustment. Vertical adjustment and up/down swivel adjustment are combined in that the light to bracket connection which allows the up/down adjustment is located in the slot which allows vertical adjustment. This complicates the adjustment process. The bracket is bolted to the motorcycle with a single bolt.
Overall the Tulsa bracket is much more substantial and the independent adjustment provides more flexibility than the Electrical Connection bracket. It should be pointed out however, that even though the Tulsa brackets has two bolts that connect it to the motorcycle, the connection still boils down to a one bolt connection in that there is a single bolt that connects the light housing to the mounting bracket.
Tulsa
Electrical Connections 
The Tulsa switch is a square switch with a plain yellow face. The switch has a snap in connector. The wires are attached by small spade connectors. You must be careful not to drill the hole oversize, since it is a snap connection and has not retaining nut on the back. The switch is lighted when activated.
The Electrical Connection switch is a round switch with a bright green face. The face has the international light symbol. The wires are pre-soldered to the terminals. You must be cautious to not oversize the hole for this switch as well as the cover plate is not substantially larger than the hole. This switch is held in place by a retaining nut. It is very difficult to attach due to the depth of the pocket in which it is installed. The switch is lighted when activated; although mine quit working after only a few days. I suspect that this was due to damage when installing the retaining nut.
I like the looks of the Electrical Connection switch. The round shape and symbol makes it look much more attractive. The Tulsa switch is much easier to install. The soldered connections on the Electrical Connection switch are fragile. Combine this with the difficulty of installing the retaining nut, you have a potential for problems.
Tulsa
Electrical Connections
Description |
Tulsa |
Electrical Connections |
| Power Lead | Connects to the positive terminal on the
battery and runs to dual relays located behind the headlight adjustment
panel. |
Connects to the positive terminal on the
battery and runs to a single relay located in the opening near the fuse
panel and then continues to the opening behind the headlight adjustment
panel. |
| Ground | Lights are grounded to the mounting bolts. |
Ground wire runs back to the negative terminal
on the battery. |
| Shielding | Does not have a shield to protect the wires. |
Has a plastic shield covering the vulnerable
portion of the harness. |
| Routing | Routes the wiring from the headlight adjustment
panel down through the upper cowl. |
Routes the wiring over the left cylinder head.
This was very difficult and required a wire fish. See
Note #2. |
| Configuration | Only allows lights to be wired so that on with
low beams. Other arrangements may be available for driving lights.
Although, this is the way I prefer to have my lights work, some don't. See
Note #3 Below |
Allows the lights to be wired with low beams,
high beams or both. See Note #3 Below. |
| Wire Size I did measure the wire size so these are general impressions. |
The wire sizes seem to be appropriate and in
some cases oversized. |
The wire sizes seem to be marginal. Much of the
wiring appears to be 18 gauge. |
| Fuse Size 55 watts/12 volts = 4.6 amps |
15 amp. The 14 gauge wire size seems to be designed to accommodate the fuse.
See wire chart below. |
20 amp. The fuse is far too large particularly
given the size of the wire. See Note #4 below. See wire chart below.
|
The bracket we use is right at the
same thickness as the bracket between the Tulsa lights and their main mount.
We opted to go direct to the bike from the light thinking that less parts
equaled an easier install. We have had zero bracket failures and feel
that the current kit is easy to install and more than adequate in its job to
secure the lights to the bike. They do not vibrate and absorb enough
shock to help eliminate fractured filaments due to their design/composition.
Lewis Preston, Electrical Connection
As pointed out, the Tulsa Bracket although having a
substantially stronger primary bracket is still a one hole mounts. I
gave the advantage to Tulsa in that the the adjustment is independent
for up/down, side to side, and swivel. While the EC lights combine
swivel and up/down adjustment.
I think that the method of routing the
wire over the left cylinder head is lacking in our instructions as I can run
it in 30 seconds.
Maybe that this was just me. But I had a terrible time
with it and so will not change my rating until I see a sufficient number
of posts on the forums to counter my opinion. The Tulsa routing was very
easy. I would even recommend this routing if you are using the EC
lights.
As an engineer and general manager
who designed and manufactured aerial lift equipment, I have been involved in
numerous product liability suits. I concur with Allen points (See
comments below) about how the
lights should work and have decided to change the configuration rating from
a thumbs down to a thumbs up. I recognize that some will want the
flexibility to change the configuration and may not agree with this rating,
it is for this reason I have also given the flexibility of the EC light
configuration a thumbs up also.
The fuse was indeed 5 amps too large. That has been fixed. The lights are 55 watts each, therefore you have 110 watts total draw. The bulbs draw 4.58 amps each totaling 9.16 amps. At 150% (initial turn on surge) of 13.74 amps. Installing a 10 amp fuse would most likely blow upon light activation. In a direct short, there would be minimal difference between a 15 and a 20. Therefore a 15 amp fuse should be used.
Our kit uses a separate 18 gauge wire to each light on both
positive and ground from the relay. The wire gauge into the relay from
the battery is 16 gauge as is the ground wire that feeds into the relay and
then to the lights. According to the American Wire Gauge
Specifications Tables, 16 gauge wire is designed to carry 11 amps maximum continuous
current. We are using the wire at 83% of its max rated current.
The 18 gauge wire is being used at 76% of its max rated current. This
is based on the most current version of the wiring harness which has been
changed twice. This of course as I am sure you are aware of can
vary based on # of strands and length of the wire run. Lewis Preston,
Electrical Connection
I had originally posted that maybe Tulsa and EC should both be using a 10 amp fuse. I did not think about the initial surge so a 15 amp fuse would be appropriate.
I reduced my rating from two thumbs down to one thumbs down. I still believe that the wire should be sized to the fuse, which means a 14 gauge wire should be used from the battery.
The following chart found in FAA Advisory
Circular 4313 shows the comparison between wire size and circuit
protection. http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ra/electric1.html
| Wire
AN Gauge Copper |
Fuse Amps |
| 22 | 5 |
| 20 | 5 |
| 18 | 10 |
| 16 | 10 |
| 14 | 15 |
| 12 | 20 |
| 10 | 30 |
| 8 | 50 |
I hate to sound like I am beating this wire gauge thing to death, but according to all the charts from major OE suppliers and the AWG standards, for a 9 amp load, you would use a 15 amp fuse and 16 gauge wire for a 20-29 foot wire run. For a 5 foot run like Allen and I have, the charts specify 20 gauge. I pulled the seat off my 1800 and looked at the low beam wiring and fuse as it is the same wattage as our lights (55 x 2). The wiring appears to be 18 gauge with a light insulation or 20 gauge with a heavy judging solely by diameter. The fuse is 15 amps. This being the case, our harness uses heavier gauge of wire than Honda's. Lewis Preston, Electrical Connections.
WIRE GAUGE SELECTION TABLE
Circuit Amperes
Circuit Watts
Wire gauge (for length in feet)
6V
12V
6V
12V
3'
5'
7'
10'
15'
20'
25'
0 to 2.5
0 to 5
15
30
18
18
18
18
18
18
18
3.0
6
18
36
18
18
18
18
18
18
16
3.5
7
21
42
18
18
18
18
18
18
16
4.0
8
24
48
18
18
18
18
18
16
16
5.0
10
30
60
18
18
18
18
16
16
16
5.5
11
33
66
18
18
18
18
16
16
14
6.0
12
36
72
18
18
18
18
16
16
14
7.5
15
45
90
18
18
18
18
14
14
12
9.0
18
54
108
18
18
16
16
14
14
12
10
20
60
120
18
18
16
16
14
12
10
11
22
66
132
18
18
16
16
12
12
10
12
24
72
144
18
18
16
16
12
12
10
15
30
90
180
18
16
16
14
10
10
10
20
40
120
240
18
16
14
12
10
10
8
25
50
150
300
16
14
12
12
10
10
8
50
100
300
600
12
12
10
10
6
6
4
75
150
450
900
10
10
8
8
4
4
2
100
200
600
1200
10
8
8
6
4
4
2
Find the amperes or watts the circuit is expected to carry on the left and the distance the wiring must run at the top - follow the columns until they intersect - for example, a 12 volt circuit which is 15 feet long and carries 10 amperes should use at least 16 gauge wire.
- Note the above chart that Lewis refers to is intended to size wire to avoid voltage drop and not for sizing it to the protection provided. http://catalog.com/susq/other/wiring.htm Note that wire sizes for lighting is more critical than for other applications — The rated output of a lamp is figured at 13.5 volts, not 12. So with a 1/2 volt drop you are at 13.0 volts. And at 95% of the rated voltage, you are only putting out 80% of the rated luminous intensity - for a 100 watt lamp that’s only 80 watts!! Get what you pay for and figure to the high side when you are sizing wire for lighting.
- I appreciate what Lewis is saying and each person can make up there own mind.
I ask you for an unbaised comparison and have no problem with the comparison and respect your comments.
The only addition I would comment on is the 2 relay system is for the Fog Lights system, legally they can only function on low beam, as all the new cars that come stock with them. The Fog Lights are available to project either yellow or blue lights. Our Driving Lights are a clear Driving (long range) light and only require a single relay to function with the high beams, again to be legal a driving light functions with the high beam only since it is a long range light not a short range as the fog/running light.
The Tulsa Fog light requires a unique wiring to work properly on the 1800. There is no "low" beam as such, only 2 of the 4 light are low, and there is no reasonable way to supply a "trigger" wire for a relay. With the two relays, the first controls the power to the second, it supplies this power when the key is turned on, the second relay is normally closed and when it gets power to the "trigger" high beam, it turns the relay off, that is the reason for the "extra" terminal, that is the configuration of this type relay. That is the reason we caution about not using this "extra" terminal.
Yes, this is a more complex system, but, to meet the legal requirements it is necessary and we feel it is also a safety feature. If the lights are controlled independent there is a second switch that much be activated to turn the lights on and off, on is no problem, other that the distraction, however, with the driving lights, it can be a real safety with a high power long range light, if properly adjusted, they can be a problem for on coming traffic and when in a curve and meeting a car you will have to find TWO switches, the Hi/Low is a fairly normal action, the second is not and requires the rider to take his concentration from what he is doing, even if for a moment, or by the time the second switch is found you have meet and "blinded" the oncoming vehicle and this can cause a safety problem for the rider especially if that driver has had something to drink and he drives toward those "Bright" lights. Now if this switch is down on the fairing as it is on the 1800 it is necessary to remove your hand from the handlebar, and this is not really the safest way to meet a car in the middle of a curve on a 2 lane road in the dark. To us this is a safety issue first and a legal one second. If a customer wants to modify them, that is their decision. I, personally, don't know anyone who has modified the "running" lights on their car to be control independent of the low beams, I'm sure there probably are some, but, it is not the norm.
Our intent is to provide our customers with a good quality product at a reasonable price. Being, a small company we do most all our own development work and most of our products are developed to meet the standards we want for our personal bike, this is based on over 35 years riding motorcycles and 20 years on Gold Wings. Quality and Function are not just words to us, but, a reality. Since we are a small company and manufacture products other than lights, it requires more us to spend time on all these products, asking for your comparison and evaluation was to be sure we had a product that was competitive.
Here are the main differences:
Honda: 35 watt bulbs (available only from Honda), 3 point mount, uses existing wiring, you add a sub-harness for the relay and the switch, glass lens w/composite housing (15.3 ounces each), non adjustable except for the angle which the light comes out (like your headlight), operate only on low beam, one lens selection, switch illuminated whenever key is on, switch has universal marking for "aux lamps", cannot accept standard H3 bulb unless bulb is modified.
Tulsa: stainless "T" bar mount (2 point), 55 watt bulbs, plugs into Honda harness for switch and then to battery for main power, glass lens w/die cast alum housing (9 ounces each), fully adjustable left/right/fore/aft/up/down, can operate on either high or low beam, switch illuminated only on when lights are on (to the best of my knowledge), 2 relays, center cap matches those of the factory headlight, 2 lens selection (clear and fog), replacement bulbs available from any auto parts store/Wal Mart, etc.
EC: single point mount, 55 watt bulbs, plugs into Honda harness for switch and then to battery for main power, glass lens w/die cast alum housing (6 ounces each), fully adjustable left/right/fore/aft/up/down, can operate on either high or low beam, switch illuminated only on when lights are on, includes trim for cowl cutout edges, main wiring harness is heat shielded, single relay, switch has universal marking for "aux lamps", center cap matches those of factory headlight, 3 lens and 2 bulb selection (clear, Ion <for fog>, Hyper-White and the clear with a Xenon boosted bulb - all others use halogen bulb), replacement bulbs available from any auto parts store/Wal Mart etc. There may be more that I'm missing, but these are the questions we see the most. Lewis / EC
